Through a stroke of amazing luck and serendipity, I contacted Chef Gordon Rader just a couple of days before the Culinary Arts program’s American Contemporary Luncheon on Thursday, July 9th. This luncheon is part of the International Luncheon series, held 3-5 times a year at the Indian Hills Culinary Arts program. I was curious about just how often these special presentations happen since it was hard to believe that I just happened to have decided to go visit Gordon at such an opportune moment. According to him:

Summer and Winter Terms have the international lunches and we generally have 3 to 5 depending on class size.  We will also begin our Winter/Spring Dinner Series in October.  One dinner in October, November, February, March and April.

The American Contemporary Luncheon was designed and presented by 6th term students Ron Wexman and Mangal Tamang. Mangal’s a Fairfield resident from Nepal.

Chef Gordon went to the trouble of requesting that vegetarian dishes be prepared as the main course for my wife and me. Mangal Tamang asked what I would like, and my first thought (since he’s Nepali) was momos. If you’ve never had a momo, it bears a vague parallel to dumplings. I’ve never had good momo’s in the US, and here was my chance to get a Nepali to make some for me But I also requested that he try to be as true to the theme as possible. So he’d have to make us vegetarian options that fit with “American Contemporary” cuisine.

Momos by Mangal Tamang

To be absolutely honest my expectations were not high for this event. I do not expect to have outstanding food from students in Iowa (many profound apologies to Chef Gordon!). Add to that my vegetarian restrictions and I just have to set the bar low. I’ll say that my expectations were blown out of the water and whether it is Chef Gordon, or whether the students just have their act together, the Culinary Arts program delivered on the promise of a very high caliber luncheon. The entire presentation was well thought out, the students worked smoothly with absolutely no dysfunction, the kitchen was a pleasure to be in (absolutely orderly, clean and no feeling of stress at any point in spite of us being in the way) and the courses went out without a glitch. The plating, garnish and presentation were very appealing and a good combination of color and texture. And the service was extraordinarily smooth.

I could be very nit-picky with certain elements of the meal, but I’ll say that all-in-all (including the meat, which my meat-eating friend gave me comments on) everything was as good as any decent restaurant in Chicago. In spite of their limited exposure to the world of gastronomy the students created an interesting range of dishes – from hand-cut chips to champagne sorbet.

In some sense I regret that I don’t eat meat, but only because it would have allowed me to review those offerings better from a first-hand perspective. My omnivorous friend, however, stated that the meat dishes were “pretty good”, and that the meal was altogether as good as any decent Chicago restaurant.

I should add that Mangal’s challenge to create an American Contemporary envisioning of vegetarian food was pretty interesting. His Nepali background may have hindered him in that he immediately assumed that my being Indian required that he make Indian-tasting fare. But that said, the momos he made were absolutely outstanding. And the tomato sauce that he created to go with them was perfect (and I don’t say *that* too often about food). He also created a rice and vegetable main course. The vegetables were very Indian sub-continent inspired. The rice, however, was very unique. He made it into a sort of pilaf, but included cottage cheese, which created the combined texture of heat and cold, tough and creamy. I’ve never had anything like it and my palate was very happy.

The desserts were really inspired. The menu stated that the dessert would be “Chocolate Ricotta Pudding with a Strawberry Sauce”. The chocolate ricotta pudding was, in fact, served with a combination of mango and strawberry sauces. They were both divine, to the degree that the remaining strawberry sauce was basically spooned up by the students in a non-stop stream until it was all gone. Again, perfection in these sauces. And finally the sorbet. We were told the sorbet was mango-pineapple. I could definitely detect the pineapple texture, but would not have been able to identify these two ingredients (mango or pineapple). It tasted more like a subtle pear-based sorbet. This may have been the result of the champagne crossing with the pineapple and mango flavors. In any case it was very very good.

Chocolate Ricotta Pudding with Strawberry and Mango Sauce

I don’t know what the Culinary Arts program was like prior to Chef Gordon’s arrival. But given the comments I received from a couple of graduates and a couple of the students, he has been nothing short of inspirational. This is quite evident in the respect his students demonstrate and the orderliness with which they conduct themselves in his presence.

Ron Wexman’s goal is to start a higher-end restaurant in Keokuk in the next couple of years (once he can get a loan and get is current student loans figured out). He wants to have his own fresh-baked bread, and is even considering a prix fixe offering weekly to cater to the more adventurous but also dedicated gastronomists. I’m really keeping my fingers crossed that that happens soon.

Mangal Tamang, who used to apparently work in the MUM kitchen for a while, has to deal with the standard visa nonsense and so will try to get a decent internship, probably not in Iowa. This is unfortunate since Mangal has some serious talent (or genetic makeup). I’m of the opinion that a Nepali-fusion restaurant is what he should create, catering to a somewhat adventurous yet still conservatively inclined midwestern palate. We really need some variety in the area and it has to come with quality! [On a side rant, I'm just absolutely appalled by the so-called "Indian" restaurants in the area, pretty much all of which do a dis-service to Indian food. Mangal could even do well serving true Nepali fare, which has a taste and texture that is inspired by Indian spices, but takes it a step further in inventiveness.]

The bottom line here is that anyone interested in a culinary experience should try to sign up for the next International Luncheon. There will also be some prix fixe dinners ($75/plate) coming in the next few months, which Chef Gordon will be blogging about at his blog, and has promised to also send me updates on (which I’ll blog about right here)..

If you’re interested in the American Culinary Foundation South-East Iowa Sub-chapter which Chef Gordon is trying to get going, there will be a meeting on July 27th at 6pm at the Bridgeview Center in Ottumwa about his plans. He’s hoping to bring together the area’s €œlike minded€ chefs, cooks, restaurateurs and culinary enthusiasts to unite and organize on the new €œfood front€ in SE Iowa. Laudable goals and one that I’m gung-ho about!

[P.S. If you'd like to see a full feed of the pictures, check out my HillsKitchen set at flickr or check out the slide-show below.]

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